- Industrial Blind Stitch, Skip Stitch, curved needle
- Stitch depth penetration and stitch length adjustment dials
- Swing-away work plate for extended working space
- Maximum sewing speed up to 2,500 stitches per minute
- Swing-down cylinder arm allows easy insertion and removal or work piece
- Extremely simple to operate
- Small Cylinder Arm - great for children's clothes.
- Perfect for sewing all weight of materials including synthetics, woolens, cottons, fabric and knits
- 1 to 1 non-skip stitches, typical operations include felling edge tapes, bottom of trousers, cuffs, facings to canvas and knit goods, turned-up bottoms of fully lined coats, padding collars and lapels, and reinforcing trouser seats
- 2 to 1 skip stitch for hemming dresses, skirts, slacks, trousers, sportswear, coats, draperies, blouses and other articles
- Suitable for felling operations requiring a skip stitch to simulate hand stitching
- Ideal for alteration rooms, tailors, clothing rentals, dry cleaners, department stores, dressmakers and home use.
For Reference Only: Installation and Operating Instructions for US Blindstitch Machines
- US Warranty 90 Days labor on defects in materials and workmanship.
- Non-US Warranty: 30 days parts and labor
Speed, Max (S.P.M.) : 2500*
Clearance Under Foot : 8mm
Stitch Length, Max. : 1/4" - 3/8" (3 - 8mm)
Needle : 251LG
Stitch Type : 103
Blind Hemmer Ending Stitch Techniques I show how I now end my blind hemmer stitches. In the past I always used the old technique of raising the needle to its' highest position and releasing the pressure foot and jerking the fabric back quickly to break the thread. This led to size 10 needles skipping stitches sooner than I thought they should. I contacted the mfg of my machine and they told me to use the technique I show in this video. Since I've gone to it my #10 needles are lasting much longer. :) The machine shown is an Industrial Consew made in Japan back in the 1970s. Kevin Sews Published on Jul 2, 2014
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When I pull the stitching out, several stitches unravel along with it. Is there a way to tack the stitches to prevent unraveling?
Jenna, there are several ways of securing a blind hem stitch at the end of a seam. The easiest way is to sew over and beyond the end of a seam, especially if hemming a tubular item like pants. When you sew over previous stitching it helps to lock the stitches in.
Before you remove fabric from the end of the machine feeder, turn the hand wheel clockwise to swing the needle all the way to the left position in the needle channel which will help secure the thread and stitch in place. Then quickly pull or jerk the fabric hem from behind the feeder which will break the thread and tie off the chain stitch so that it will not continue to unravel. It takes some practice because you may have to use the knee lever or hand wheel to position or release the fabric if it is not already at the end of the feeder.
You can also turn the hand wheel counterclockwise at the end of the seam (like reverse stitching but no formation) just to hide the end stitches, or you can manually weave the unraveled thread back into the chainstitch with a seaming needle.
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