- Tacsew T-500 by Tacony Corporation is the KING of BLIND STITCH MACHINES in the USA, over 3000 units of this model alone sold last year.
- Up to 1200 Stitches per Minute
- Built-in Motor, Control, Wiring
- Knee Lift, Skitp Stitch & Cylinder Arm
- 110 Volts, 90 watts, 6500 RPM
- ALL METAL Portable Blindstitcher
- Made in Taiwan
- Portable Home Use Sewing Machines for Apparel Tailoring and Alterations only
- US Warranty 90 Days labor on defects in materials and workmanship.
- Non-US Warranty: 30 days parts and labor
- 1200 stitches per minute
- Stitch penetration and stitch length variability gives you big machine features in a portable unit
- Swing-down cylinder arm allows for easy insertion and removal of heaviest material - Swing-away bed plate for extended work space
- Side-mounted thread tensions
- Simple to operate and maintain
- Skip stitch feature for 1-1 and
- 2-1 stitching
- Stitch length 3.5-7 mm
- Weight: 25 lbs
- Needle size: #11, 14
- For sewing all types of light to medium weight materials including synthetics, knits and woolens
- Typical sewing operations include pant cuffs, felling slack bottoms, hemming dress, skirt and coat bottoms, light draperies, negligees, undergarments, lapel padding, blouses and sleeves
- Suitable for felling operations requiring a skip stitch to simulate handstitching
- Ideal for alteration rooms tailors, clothing rentals, dry cleaners, department stores, dressmakers and home use
Click HERE for Short Generic Instruction Book Operating Manual User Guide for Table Top Portable Blindstitch Sewing Machines
Click HERE for Longer Generic Instruction Book Operating Manual User Guide for Table Top Portable Blindstitch Sewing Machines
Blind Hemmer Ending Stitch Techniques I show how I now end my blind hemmer stitches. In the past I always used the old technique of raising the needle to its' highest position and releasing the pressure foot and jerking the fabric back quickly to break the thread. This led to size 10 needles skipping stitches sooner than I thought they should. I contacted the mfg of my machine and they told me to use the technique I show in this video. Since I've gone to it my #10 needles are lasting much longer. :) The machine shown is an Industrial Consew made in Japan back in the 1970s. Kevin Sews Published on Jul 2, 2014
- A true time-saving alternative to hemming pants, dresses, curtains, or draperies by hand
- In less time than it takes to pin a hem and thread a needle, this blind hemmer can sew the complete job
- Completely hides the hemstitch
- Heavy duty, all metal casting blind hemmer
- Industrial built quality with very low noise and vibration design
- Use for hemming pants, skirts, dresses, curtains, and more
- Adjustable stitch penetration: Modify the depth of the needle penetration; allows you to hem a wide variety of fabric types
- Skip stitch lever: Allows the machine to skip every other stitch which reduces puckering on light-weight fabrics
- Adjustable 0-7mm stitch length
- Adjustable thread tension
- Maximum hem width of 3-1/4"
- 1,725-RPM speed
- Knee lift
- Swing-away mini work surface (4" to 2-1/2" x 9-3/4")
- Weight: 25 pounds
- Ten-page instruction manual (includes a parts listing with line drawing pictures)
- Foot control (75" power cord)
- Needle eye guard
- Two screwdrivers
- Four Allen wrenches
- One open-ended wrench
- Two replacement needles (LW x 6T)
- Knee lift
- Table clamp (clamps machine to your table top up to 2-1/2" thickness)
- Thread Guide
- Bottle of oil (there are six easy to get at locations, clearly marked, on the Blind Hemmer that require oiling)
- Clear plastic cover
Additional machine measurements:
- 9-1/4" high (not including thread guide)
- 11-1/4" (left to right)
- 13-1/2" (not including the knee lift which protrudes out about 2" more)
- Base 8-3/4" x 9-1/4"
Note: Because of its industrial design, there isn't a light on this blind hemmer and there isn't an on/off switch, just plug it in and its ready to go
- 3 needles, 1 in machine
- Regular wrench and allen wrench, C clamp bracket for table
- Instruction Parts Accessories book
- Foot control, Unplug to turn off machine.
- Tweezers to thread needle from bottom uup
- Thread stand in box, needs installation on back of machine
- Knee Lifter Lever Bar is in box
When I pull the stitching out, several stitches unravel along with it. Is there a way to tack the stitches to prevent unraveling?
Jenna, there are several ways of securing a blind hem stitch at the end of a seam. The easiest way is to sew over and beyond the end of a seam, especially if hemming a tubular item like pants. When you sew over previous stitching it helps to lock the stitches in.
Before you remove fabric from the end of the machine feeder, turn the hand wheel clockwise to swing the needle all the way to the left position in the needle channel which will help secure the thread and stitch in place. Then quickly pull or jerk the fabric hem from behind the feeder which will break the thread and tie off the chain stitch so that it will not continue to unravel. It takes some practice because you may have to use the knee lever or hand wheel to position or release the fabric if it is not already at the end of the feeder.
You can also turn the hand wheel counterclockwise at the end of the seam (like reverse stitching but no formation) just to hide the end stitches, or you can manually weave the unraveled thread back into the chainstitch with a seaming needle.
The Tacsew T500 seems to be the closest in comparison to the TBH Bilind Hemmer I ordered, but it's portable, like many of the machines listed: U.S.Stitch Line SL78-2, Chandler CM101, Singer 7SS, Tacsew T718-SS-2, which one do you recommend? Martha.
Tacony Babylock discontinued the BL101, BH600 The Blindhemmer is that it cost to much to make for just a 10 pound machine that would only handle lighter weight fabrics. The Tacony Tacsew T500 is the best portable blindstitch machine because it is made in the original factory in Taiwan, and not in China where all the other clones are made. It suitable for all apparel fabrics from light to medium. We do not recommend blindstitch machines for heavy weight fabrics or thread.
I am breaking a lot of needles and the tension is getting too tight on its own while stitching and causing the thread to break. I am learning the machine for two weeks. Is it so sensitive too wools, cottons, and fleece that this would make such a major difference in the stitching - breaking needles, breaking thread? Kay
It may not be tension that is causing the problem with your portable blindstitch. If you have broken needles it has probably left some needle burrs in the thread and needle path that need polishing off with fine emory cloth (crocus) before sewing again.
Start with a new LWx6T needle without thread or fabric. Watch the needle as you turn the hand wheel. If there is needle deflection, reduce the penetration dial until there is no needle movement. If there is needle deflection caused by burrs, they must be polished off. Check the looper tip and two arms for any needle burrs and polish off. If there is needle deflection caused by the needle track lifting the needle, lower the track very slightly with the screws on the side of the black metal bracket above the needle.
Finally, Back off on the tension dial and retighten while you are sewing with a light strong thread and light to medium weight fabric, until you get the correct tension without loops. If tension is too tight it will push the thread up so it is not all the way down between the tension discs where it belongs. JMD
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