QCC Quilters Cruise Control Brain & Connector Cord Upgrade, Specify Machine and Frame

Our Price: $465.00 Prices are subject to change, and only current prices will be honored. Shipping: Free Ground Shipping to the Contiguous USA Availability: Usually leaves the warehouse in 5-7 business days. Condition: New In Box

Features

Specifications

QCC Quilters Cruise Control Free Motion Stitch Length Regulator with XY Encoders, for Quilting Machines on Frames From Compatibility Chart*

Our Price: $619.99 Prices are subject to change, and only current prices will be honored. Shipping: Free Ground Shipping to the Contiguous USA Availability: Usually leaves the warehouse in 5-7 business days. Condition: New In Box

Features

Specifications

• Babylock QCP Quilter’s Choice Professional (but not BLQP2 by Jaguar)
  
• Bernina models 135-200
  
• Brother PQ1300
  
• Brother PQ1500
  
• Brother PQ1500S
  
• Brother PQ1500SL
  
• Brother PQ1500SLPRW
  
• Elna 7200
  
• HandiQuilter Original HQ16 Machine and Frame
  
• Husqvarna Viking Designer LE
  
• Husqvarna Viking Designer SE
  
• Husqvarna Viking Mega Quilter
  
• Husqvarna SE LE
  
• HV Designer Diamond
  
• HV Designer 1
  
• HV Designer 1 USB
  
• HV Designer II
  
• HV Designer SE
  
• Janome 1600P Series
  
• Janome 6300P
  
• Janome 6500
  
• Janome 6600
  
• Juki TL98E
  
• Juki TL98Q
  
• Juki TL98QE
  
• Juki TL2010Q
  
• Juki TL2000Qi
  
• Pfaff Grand Quilter
  
• Pfaff Creative Vision
  
• Pfaff Classic Style 2023, 2025, 2027, 2029
  
• Viking Husqvarna Mega Quilter
  
• Viking Husqvarna Sapphire 850
  
  Quilting Frames
  
• B-Line with inserts
  
• B-Line without inserts
  
• Bernina Quilting Frame
  
• Grace and Little Gracie (black plastic carriages)
  
• Grace and Little Gracie (wood and aluminum carriages)
  
• Grace GMQ Pro Frame
  
• Grace Mini-Pinni
  
• Grace Next Generation
  
• Grace Pinnacle
  
• Grace Sturdy Lite Quilting Frame
  
• HandiQuilter
  
• HandiQuilter II
  
• HandiQuilter HQ16
  
• HandiQuilter HQ16 Machine and Frame
  
• Happy Jack
  
• Hinterberg (Original)**
  
• Hinterberg (Stretch)**
  
• Hinterberg (Summit)**
  
• Inspira Imperial
  
• Inspira Original
  
• John Watts Quilter
  
• New Joy: Gold Standard
  
• New Joy: Magic
  
• PC Quilter's Max Throat
  
• Pennywinkle Valley Ranch
  
• Quilt Easy
  
• Super Quilter King
  
• Super Quilter Proflex
  
• Suzy Q Quilter
  
• Ultra Quilter
  
  **may require compatible parts, purchased from frame manufacturer.
  
  If you do not see your sewing machine or quilting frame, contact us for future release dates. We are working on adding different versions. Some Quilters Cruise Controls can take 2 - 3 weeks for delivery depending upon your machine and frame combination. Cruise Controls for common machine and frame combinations such as Juki TL series and Janome 1600 series machine being used on current model Grace frames usually ship in 1 to 2 days. All Quilter's Cruise Control products are shipped directly back to the manufacturer and have a 25% restocking fee.
  
  Quilter’s Cruise Control Troubleshooting Guide:
  
  General Set-up and Operation: the speed the sewing machine goes when you are using the QCC is determined by
  the speed that you are moving the sewing machine/carriages. The optical encoders pick up on the speed. The one
  on the upper carriage determines the speed you’re moving front to back and the one on the bottom carriage
  determines the speed you’re moving left to right.
  If you’re moving the platform more than 2 inches per second, you are moving too fast. The sewing machine will go
  only about 1500 stitches per minute (about two inches per second maximum). Faster than that, the sewing
  machine can’t go fast enough and then the needle coming out of the fabric can’t move fast enough to come out
  straight up. This can cause thread breakage.
  The Quilter’s Cruise Control has nothing to do with thread breakage. It serves basically the same purpose as the
  foot pedal. And the foot pedal has nothing to do with thread breakage.
  If your sewing machine has a speed slide, it should be in the middle range as this is the speed that works optimally
  with the usual settings on the Quilter's Cruise Control. The stitch length on the sewing machine should be set to
  zero. The pressure on the foot should be very low or zero.
  Troubleshooting for the QCC
  First, unthread your needle.
  Turn on the sewing machine and the QCC. Ensure the machine light is on and the needle is slowly moving up and
  down. Move the carriages front to back only. This checks the operation of the optical encoder on the top carriage.
  Do the same moving the carriages left to right. This checks the operation of the optical encoder on the bottom
  carriage.
  If the problem seems to be the front to back stitching, follow this sequence:
  First we need to narrow down if it is something wrong with the optical encoder or the wiring harness or if it is an
  installation problem. With the encoder wheel on the top carriage between your thumb and forefinger, spin the
  encoder.
  1) Does the machine change speed? Yes/No
  If yes, that encoder and the wiring harness to it are working just fine and there is something wrong with the
  installation. If the sewing machine does not speed up and slow down, something is not right with the encoder or
  the wiring harness to it or the installation (see below for a couple of suggestions).
  If the problem seems to be the left to right stitching, check the optical encoder on the lower carriage instead.
  If this is an installation problem, follow this sequence: Make sure that the optical encoder "tires" or o-rings on the
  upper carriage are making good contact on the lower carriage. Gravity should hold the encoder down, although it
  should not be so tight that you can't raise it up and let gravity take it down again.
  2) Are the O-rings making good contact? Yes/No
  Make sure that the encoder is spinning smoothly. If it's hard to see, you might want to put a dot of white paint or
  fingernail polish on one of the edges to help see.
  3) Is the encoder spinning smoothly? Yes/No
  
  If it is not an installation problem, follow this sequence: Now we need to figure out if it is the optical encoder or
  the wiring harness. The way to tell is by gently, very gently, unplugging the wire from the optical encoder and
  swapping it over to the other optical encoder. If the problem moved, then the wiring harness is the culprit. If it
  stayed in the same place, then the optical encoder is the culprit.
  4) What is the culprit? Wiring harness/Optical encoder
  Best Practices...You may also want to check:
  Bobbin tension. Be sure to check the tension in the bobbin. You can do this by taking the bobbin case with the
  bobbin in it and the thread coming out of it. Pretend that it is like a yoyo. Take the protruding thread into your
  right hand. Hold your left hand (if you’re right-handed, otherwise just the opposite) below your right hand.
  With your right hand holding the thread, allow the bobbin case to move down the thread into your left hand.
  If it moves so quickly you don’t need to coax it like a yoyo, the tension is too loose. Tighten it up (tighten the
  screw on the bobbin case until such time you test it, it needs to be coaxed down the thread into your left
  hand). If the bobbin case doesn’t move down at all, loosen it (loosen the screw on the bobbin case until such
  time you test it, it needs only a bit of coaxing, but does move down into your left hand).
  Thread path. Refer to your sewing machine manual and follow the directions for threading the machine. For
  example, from the pin holding your thread spool, guide the thread up through the two loops on the
  telescoping pole, then down through the third hole on the pre-tension arm. Do not go around the screw-like
  part that is used only for winding a bobbin. Then guide the thread through the tension disks over the tension
  spring, under the lower hook, up through the reciprocating arm, then down and through the thread guides
  and through the hole in the needle. This ensures that the thread tension, together with the correct bobbin
  tension, is appropriate and won’t cause any thread breakage.
  If the thread is correctly routed, there should be no problem. If there is still a problem, there could be a burr
  in the tension spring. Or there could some other mechanical anomaly in the sewing machine.
  New needle. Needles should not be used more than 8 hours.
  Make sure that your feed dogs are down all the way. If they’re rubbing up against the bottom of the fabric,
  then you could have a problem with the fabric “sticking” and them maybe not “moving” away from the
  needle quickly enough to avoid broken thread or even a broken needle.
  Make sure that you have appropriately raised the frame’s take-up bar that goes through the throat of the
  sewing machine. If the fabric isn’t just on or barely above the throat of the machine all the way across the
  frame, you could have one of two problems: If too low, it will bog down your movement of the carriages. If
  too high, the fabric is tenting up, meaning that it is too high above the throat and when the foot goes down
  and then comes back up again, the fabric comes up before the needle has had a chance to come out of the
  fabric. This could also cause broken thread and broken needle.
  If you are unable to make any determination of the culprit causing the troubles, you may wish to send the unit
  in for diagnosis/evaluation/service/repair/replacement. There is a minimum service fee required for all Service
  Tickets, please contact us for information.