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INCLUDED: Organ Curved BlindStitch Machine Needles Box of 50 in 10 packs of 5 One Size

  • US Warranty 30 Days labor on defects in materials and workmanship.
  • Non-US Warranty: 30 days parts and labor
Specifications
  • Perfect for sewing all weights of materials including synthetics, woolens, cottons, fabric and knits
  • 1 to 1 non-skip stitches, typical operations include felling edge tapes, bottoms of trousers, cuffs, wigging in sleeves, facings to canvas and knit goods, turned-up bottoms of fully lined coats, padding collars and lapels, and reinforcing seats
  • 2 to 1 skip stitch for hemming dresses, skirts, slacks, trousers, sportswear, ladies coats, draperies, blouses and other articles
  • Suitable for felling operations requiring a skip stitch to simulate hand-stitching
  • 2 to 1 skip stitch is recommended for synthetics and other lightweight materials and 1 to 1 for heavier cotton, woolen and linen goods
  • Stitch length adjustment by push button
  • Stitch depth penetration adjustment dials
  • Swing down, narrow cylinder arm allows for easy insertion and removal of work piece
  • Easy open, swing away work plate for extended working space
  • Stitch length max: 2-1/2" (3 mm - 9 mm) s.p.i.
  • Needle: 300 LG
  • Looper: 162
  • Cylinder diameter: 2-1/4" (57 mm)
  • Work space: 7" (180 mm)
  • Work plate dimensions: 361 mm x 153 mm
  • Stitch type: 103






    Blind Hemmer Ending Stitch Techniques
    I show how I now end my blind hemmer stitches. In the past I always used the old technique of raising the needle to its' highest position and releasing the pressure foot and jerking the fabric back quickly to break the thread. This led to size 10 needles skipping stitches sooner than I thought they should. I contacted the mfg of my machine and they told me to use the technique I show in this video. Since I've gone to it my #10 needles are lasting much longer. :) The machine shown is an Industrial Consew made in Japan back in the 1970s. Kevin Sews Published on Jul 2, 2014

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Re: Single Thread Portable or Power Stand BlindStitch Hemming Machines:
When I pull the stitching out, several stitches unravel along with it. Is there a way to tack the stitches to prevent unraveling?
Jenna, there are several ways of securing a blind hem stitch at the end of a seam. The easiest way is to sew over and beyond the end of a seam, especially if hemming a tubular item like pants. When you sew over previous stitching it helps to lock the stitches in.
Before you remove fabric from the end of the machine feeder, turn the hand wheel clockwise to swing the needle all the way to the left position in the needle channel which will help secure the thread and stitch in place. Then quickly pull or jerk the fabric hem from behind the feeder which will break the thread and tie off the chain stitch so that it will not continue to unravel. It takes some practice because you may have to use the knee lever or hand wheel to position or release the fabric if it is not already at the end of the feeder.
You can also turn the hand wheel counterclockwise at the end of the seam (like reverse stitching but no formation) just to hide the end stitches, or you can manually weave the unraveled thread back into the chainstitch with a seaming needle.