Organ Home Sewing, Embroidery, Serging & Quilting, Portable Blindhem Stitch & Upholstery Needles

"Absolutely best selection of sewing machine needles anywhere!!" Jean R, Facebook A SEWING MACHINE IS ONLY AS GOOD AS THE NEEDLE IN IT! The Organ Needle Company works closely with all of Japan’s sewing machine builders to design and manufacture needles for optimal performance. A machine builder cannot afford to buy an inferior needle at any price! Next time you order replacement needles for your best machines, order the needles your machine builder uses. When you buy ORGAN needles for their outstanding performance you get their low price as a bonus. Would any machine builder jeopardize his reputation by supplying an inferior needle with his machine? How much could he save, $.10 or $.20 per needle, $1.00 or $2.00 per machine? The price of a needle is not a factor to him -- PERFORMANCE is the factor! Price is an added benefit, a bonus you automatically get with every box of ORGAN needles. ORGAN needles are supplied with every new machine. After you’ve used-up the free needles packed with your new machine, which performed flawlessly, why change to a more expensive needle? What can you gain? How could any needle at any price be better than those made to the machine builders specifications? How could a copy, even a more expensive copy, be better than O.E.M. specs? German made Schmetz needle recommendations started with European manufacturers Viking, Pfaff, Bernina and Elna which included Schmetz needle packs in their European made machines, which are getting fewer every year.. Problem is, no serger, blindstitch or coverhem home machines have ever been made in Europe, only Asia! NOTE: Asian manufacturers generally include Organ needles made in Japan with or in their machines. European brands instruction books may still recommend Schmetz, but their Asian contract manufacturing plants mostly include Organ needles in their machines. We have learned that machines sew better when we use Schmetz in European made machines, Organ for Asia made and Brazil for Singer made, which is also what they are timed with at those factories. You can safely substitute Schmetz for Organ, but you would pay twice as much for their specialty needles in sergers, blind hem and cover hem stitch machines made in Asia.

Click here for the Organ Needle Buying Guide (PDF) to help you find the right needles for your machine. 15x1: HAx1, 130/705H, SY2020, SY2031, 206x15, PFx130, canu 22:15 This is the standard needle with a flat shank and a regular size eye for most home sewing machines and home sewer based embroidery and quilting machines. It is widely available in a large range of sizes with a sharp or ball point, also available with PD/titanium finish. 15x1 SP: HAx1 SP This is a special version of the 15x1 for stretch or elastic materials and tightly woven knits. It is made to higher standards, it has a snake’s head shape due to a combination of a slightly bulged eye and a slightly reduced blade above the eye. The bulged eye opens a slightly larger space in the material and the thinner blade above the eye reduces contact between the material and the needle. This reduces needle heat-up and prevents skip stitches. It is also available in a light ball point to separate the fibers rather than cutting them, avoiding needle holes in the fabric. 15x1 ST: HAx1 ST, 705H-E. This is a special version of the 15x1 for embroidery and decorative stitching. It is made to higher standards for longer life. It has an oversized eye to reduce stress and tension on the thread. It also accommodates metallic threads or heavier top stitching threads and makes needle threading easier. It is available in sharp or ball point, also available with PD/titanium finish. HAx130EBBR: This NEW needle was developed for use in the new Babylock EMB6 and Brother PR-600C machines. It is an industrial quality needle with a flat shank, reinforced blade, light Ball Point and an oversized eye. It is available with a hard chrome finish. ELx705: This needle is made specifically for cover stitching. It has 2 grooves, a slightly longer scarf and a light ball point. 15x2: HAx2, HAx1LL, 130LR; This is the leather point needle with a flat shank. It has all of the same features as 15x1 with the addition of a lens shaped point to cut through leather and other heavy materials. Caution must be used when changing to this needle. Extra space must be left between needle penetrations to avoid ‘cutting out’ the design. HLx5: This needle is made for sewing hard, thick or heavy materials. It will sew through multiple ply applications like quilting, jeans, applique or heavy embroidery. It is actually an industrial needle with a flat shank. If you are bending or breaking 15x1’s this needle could solve your problem. These hard chrome needles will outlast a standard 15x1 and the PD/titanium needles are even more wear-resistant. They are available in either sharp or ball point with a hard chrome or PD/titanium finish.

How often should I replace my sewing needles? Machine needles should be replaced after a maximum sewing time of 8 hours. Replace needles more frequently when sewing synthetic fabric, appliqués or machine embroidery. This will avoid skipped stitches, fabric pulls and frayed threads. Machine needles are designed to break or shear off for the protection of the sewing machine hook mechanism, bobbin case, presser foot, or needle plate. If a needle bends or burrs, do not sew with it. When a machine needle breaks, it is a warning to check the following: ~The needle type and size is correct? ~Is the thread too thick or unsuitable for the needle size and application? ~Is the upper thread feeding freely? ~Are the thread tensions set too tight? ~Does the machine need cleaning? ~Is the correct presser foot fitted? ~Is the correct sewing technique being used? ~Is the fabric being pulled, pushed or dragged during sewing? ~Twin needles usually break due to excessive heat build up. Reduce speeds and avoid prolonged usage.

Thread breakage can be caused by resistance of thread going through the needle eye/size. A good rule of thumb is that thread should not take up more than 1/2 the space of or in the needle eye depending on thread texture. Thread a needle in your hand and let the needle slide down over the length of the thread. If there is too much resistance, it may show up as broken thread due to heat built up in higher speed sewing and/or just restriction and resistance in the needle eye which can cause thread to shred and break. There can be many more reasons for thread shredding and breaking, other than just matching correct needle eye size to thread size.